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Topics - sleepyfolk

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Just thought I’d post this up for anyone else searching with a problem in the future.

Although the Dynavin N7 is advertised as working and integrating with DSP, it’s not quite as straight forward as it first appears.
If you’ve got the DSP amp installed in the right cubby hole in your boot, check if you’ve got one sub-woofer or two. If you’ve got two you’ve got the premium sound system and once you’ve spent hours pulling your car apart and fitting it all you’ll discover you’ve got no sound.

On the Dynavin head unit go to the telephone screen as if you were about to make a call, enter *123456# and press the green telephone button as if you were going to ring someone, this takes you to the hidden menu.
Press the words “car type” and change it from E53 to E46, then click ok to restart the Dynavin, sound may or may not issue forth.
If you still have no sound, go to the “sound” option on the main screens and ✅ the box that says “OE DSP amp”, you should then have sound.

Then you just need to get the balance right between the DSP output and the Dynavin output to avoid distortion and give you gradual volume control.

Alternatively, if you’re close enough, pay them to fit it!😝

General X5 Forum (E53) / Moving the NAV unit to the boot
« on: May 05, 2018, 11:57:08 AM »
Discussed this briefly before, I think it was Henry that did it but I can’t find the info again, I’m trying to finish my dynavin install and was going to move the NAV unit to the boot at the same time, anyone who’s done it - have you:

1. Managed to move the existing wires out of the loom and pull them back through to the boot
2. Chopped the plugs off and extend the wires yourself with new cable into the boot

I thought someone said they used the existing cable but I can’t see how to get at it

General X5 Forum (E53) / Switched live in the boot area
« on: May 02, 2018, 04:58:44 PM »
Is there somewhere in the boot that has a live that is switched with the ignition? All the fuses seem to be live all the time, I thought I could use the phone fuse but it’s live even with the ignition off, does the car going to sleep make any difference to any of those fuses?
I forgot to check but the 12v sockets are always live aren’t they?

Well, as you might have gathered form my moaning on another post, and at the risk of being accused of thread hijack I thought I’d start another thread. I had a damp drivers side carpet a few weeks back - noticed because of condensation on the inside of the windscreen.
So far investigations have been:
1. Check vapour barriers behind door cards - repaired 2 and re-clipped door cards with new clips.
2. Check door seals - re-clipped drivers door seal with new clips.

Still wet and to be honest seems worse, front and back on drivers side are quite wet so god knows what it’s like under the carpet. Any other ideas let me know as I need to get her dried out ASAP

Other things I’ve noticed:
1. In the boot the left hand side seems to have a lot of condensation but not the right, not sure if it can get into the car from that area and it’s the wrong side?
2. Looks like a small crack in the near side corner lens, surely it’s not possible to leak from there to the drivers footwell.
3. There’s a thin seal attached around the sunroof which is slightly loose in one corner, I can’t see any water coming in but I’ll have to get it replaced.

Plan of action:
1. Check sunroof drains front and rear, although it shows no signs of damp or condensation anywhere around the frame or A pillars or headlining. Thanks Henry for suggestion - I will double check - “Take the A pillar cover off and if there is any sign of dampness or water then the pipe has come off. Take the grab handle off and the door seal  then you can manoeuvre the roof lining enough to push it back on again.”
 I’ll see if I can put the guide I found below for the rear drains - might help someone else with a Bavarian swimming pool.
2. Strip out boot and look for ingress, as advised by Henry “If left rear is condensating it might be the floor at the bottom of the area underneath where the cd/satnav is. The bottom bit where the exhaust heat shield is secured is a water trap and has had 16 years to rust enough to create pin holes.” - thanks
3. Check around rear light area - it has been out before but had a new gasket fitted.
4. Replace sunroof seal.

Problems / PDC Dodgy parking Sensor or module?
« on: March 16, 2018, 11:24:47 PM »
So forum genii, what’s going on here:

I read that if one sensor fails - the whole system goes down. I was getting the long tone and flashing light on the PDC switch after all the recent work, but before that the rear sensors sometimes beeped when there was nothing there.

I checked to see if they all clicked, and they did, although the rear left and centre left sounded weak.

I changed both of those (with eBay sensors) and they still sound weaker than the right rear and centre right, however All rear sensors beep if approached and stop when you move away, rear right seems to be the spurious one beeping occasionally at nothing.

On the front, they all click, the left front and centre left don’t beep at all when approached, centre right and right sensor work as normal.

So what is going on? I thought if they clicked audibly they were good, clearly not - do they get weak and fail to beep but still allow the system to work? I was thinking of changing the front 2 but I think it’s a bumper off thing so I don’t want to do it if you folk think it’s something else like a module or whatever else I don’t know about.

Just noticed on RealOEM that the corner ones seem to be right angled, the one I took out wasn’t, will this make a difference? There’s no part number for the right angled ones either!?

Sorry for the long post but I wasn’t sure if I’m wasting my time with eBay sensors, and if I take the bumper off apart from the hassle I’ll have to replace the underide protection for the radiator (another £50) and I’ve just spent a gert load this month already 🤑

So the idea was to replace a couple of rusty brake pipes front to back. Whilst we’re under there I thought well we might as well do a couple of other bits and pieces. This has now turned into:

1. Dropping the rear subframe and diff, and replacing all the steel brake lines from each wheel back to the ABS unit. New BMW brake fluid obviously which was due anyway.
2. Replace all the flexi brake pipes.
3. Fit new handbrake shoes, no wonder one wheel didn’t work, there were no shoes!
4. Change front diff oil and replace reinforcement plate bolts.
5. Change transfer box oil.
6. Change fuel filter.
7. Change rear diff oil, replace stub axle oil seals on diff, de-rust and re-paint diff before refitting.
8. Replace power steering reservoir, and suction and return lines, and pump to rack pipe assembly.
9. Replace front anti roll bar bushes, drop links, suspension arms, ball joints, track rod ends.
10. Flush cooling system and refilled with BMWs special unicorn tear antifreeze.
10. Spend £££s on various replacement driveshaft bolts, replacement clips and bolts to refit all the undertray and wheel arch gubbins back on as most of them were knackered or missing.

Not sure why I’m telling you all this, just for therapy I think and so you can all say it’s a good idea! Heeelp, my wallet and I have fallen out😝

Excellent service from Ross at Cotswold BMW for the main dealer parts and the forum discount by the way.

As title, just read this on another forum, anyone know if it’s true? I’ll be replacing the stock NAV unit with a Dynavin but in order to keep the ability to change clock etc I know you need to relocate the original unit.

Still struggling to see how I can move the NAV unit to the boot and thought it might be easier to stick a non nav in the glovebox?

Any thoughts welcome!

General X5 Forum (E53) / Oil Pressure? 4.6is
« on: September 01, 2017, 01:56:14 AM »
If I had an oil pressure guage, what oil pressure would I expect to see? Answers in Bar or PSI please  :P

I was originally going to see if I could code the RDC out, but I thought I'd ask a couple of questions on here first.

I am running aftermarket style 168's - non staggered 275/40/20 all round, I wasn't sure they had the sensors in the wheels until we put the new Michelins on the other week, 2 wheels have what look to be the original sensors and 2 have had replacements fitted by BMW.

My question is: if the sensors were all working, would the system work properly with the non-staggered set up, does everyone running winter tyres just put up with the tyre control inactive for the winter until the 10.5j's go back on.

If it doesn't matter what size rears are on for the aerial to pick up the sensor in the wheel it might be worth me checking to see if one of them is dead and getting the system going again, if it only works with the staggersd wheels I'll code it out for now.

I always seem to be leaving my bootlid open for some reason or another and the pesky boot lights never go out, I don't think they're connected to anything that throws errors or says "light out" on the dash are they?

Just thought as I was pulling off all the boot trim to put it on properly and replace the clips, and refit one of the lights interior lights that I could put a switch in each one to turn them off - anyone foresee any issues?

General X5 Forum (E53) / Solar Powered Trickle Charger?
« on: August 22, 2017, 09:11:12 PM »
Anyone had any joy with one of these? I'm using the X at the midweek and at a weekend mainly, I do keep popping the battery on charge occasionally but it would be nice if one of those solar jobbies actually worked and kept it topped up, so any recommends out there or are they all sh1te  :))

General X5 Forum (E53) / Differential and transfer case oils?
« on: August 20, 2017, 01:30:26 AM »
For the front and rear diffs am I right in thinking castrol syntrax 75/90 is the right stuff - is it 2 litres for each diff?

And transfer case just 1 litre - but which oil?

General X5 Forum (E53) / Auto Wipers Sensor
« on: August 15, 2017, 11:11:16 PM »
When I picked the car up the auto wipers seemed to work after a fashion but the sensor didn't seem to be quite right, yesterday when it rained they just didn't sense the rain at all so I had a look at the sensor from outside and there seems to be what look like large bubbles under the windscreen.

Is it fairly easy to remove the sensor and re-glue it to the screen, I see there are pads for sale but I can't imagine how you can get the bubbles out when you re-fit the sensor so I didn't want to waste my time! Anyone done it?

General X5 Forum (E53) / Which warnings lights come on with ignition?
« on: August 06, 2017, 11:40:34 PM »
Do they all come on? Can't see my little group of 3 in the middle light up above the trip odometer - its ABS, 4x4 and brakes or something isn't it?
Looked on you tube at an instrument cluster test nr2 and only the middle one came on, as did mine - do the two either side not light up when you put the ignition on the same as oil pressure, battery etc?

I know this is difficult without a photo but here goes, I know there's plenty of folk on here had their car in bits so I'm hoping you might know!

When you remove the splash guards, right at the front directly under the radiator is a tubular c. 1" in diameter metal piece of frame that is as wide as the rad, and then both ends curve back towards the rear of the car for about 6 inches, the ends of the tube seem to line up with hollow ends of the front subframe but are not attached in any way.

It's very rusty, can't see it in the front axle/sub frame pictures on real OEM, doesn't appear to have anything attached to it in terms of suspension.

Any ideas?

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