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Messages - ttr

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General X5 Forum (E53) / Seatbelt - slow to retract
« on: Today at 08:59:24 AM »
Eh up all,

My E53 drivers belt and passenger seat belts have always been slow to retract.

My initial thinking was its the belt mech itself due to age etc and would need replacing so have beenlooking at used and a way to remove the trim.

I then searched on here (should have done it first !!!!!!!!!!) and found a recommended fix.

A quick clean of the plastic guide on the underside of the belt to remove 12 years of X$Ite, i was amazed what was stuck on that guide where the hell did it come from and mange to stick on it. A mist of silicone spray and the belt retracts at warp speed.

Repeated on passenger and hey presto.

Just to acknowledge what a great site this is for info, saved a fortune in time and money so far.

Cheers all from Gods Own County.

PS if anybody gets chance to look at my earlier thread on the wood trim its now got pictures on to try and figure out what wood it is - all help appreciated.


Photos of the trim piece added - anyone confirm their thoughts on colour/trim type ( poplar dark v smoke) so i can look for a match.

Sorry you cannot see the cracking - pity as they look fine in the photos but up close cannot get the picture to show them.

I might try and get an old trim piece first if i try clear coating and see what the results are before i spray mine - which is another route to try i guess

Cheers for all the replies thus far.

General X5 Forum (E53) / Re: PAG oil
« on: June 13, 2018, 08:58:44 PM »

For what it’s worth and not knowing how bad the stains are, have you tried a good quality panel wipe, type used in spray shops for Bodyshop repairs?

Failing that I have used old fashioned cellulose paint thinners, it wAs fine on my car paintwork but I worked quickly and patch tested first, definitely more concentrated than panel wipe.

As a fallback, or safer first try, have you tried G3 fine cutting compound, then re wax and polish.

Hope this might help

General X5 Forum (E53) / Re: Fine Wood Trim S435A - Cracking
« on: June 13, 2018, 08:41:33 PM »

I will post a pic Friday when I’m back home.

Will try and get decent light so colour comes out and you can see the cracks.

It would be easier if I could get a same colour replacement but if not I’m really tempted to have a bash at re finishing myself, it’s just the risk of reaction of the clearcoat. But these days 2k clearcoats are far more stable than cellulose ever was. ( I’m talking myself into this.......)


General X5 Forum (E53) / Re: Fine Wood Trim S435A - Cracking
« on: June 13, 2018, 12:24:30 PM »
Eh up.

thanks for that, the getting off bit is fine managed to do the other passenger door when i took the door card off to fix a water leak back in March.

If i could figure out the exact wood trim its an option to look on the bay, but im stuck as to the precise colour match given what i think mine looks like ( dark poplar) verses what my VIN check says S435A which apparently is poplar smoke ?

Anyone confirm one or t'other ?

Otherwise might risk spraying - but i know the risks there too - the 2k clearcoat could end up not adhering or cracking also unless i guess the mix and apply correctly.

Cheers again


I noticed that my wooden effect door trim on the drivers side is cracking more, i assume its just the heat ( unusual for Yorkshire !!!) and the fact from what i have read its a common problem ?

My trim spec id S435A - can anyone confirm that this is Dark Poplar - ive looked and it seesm to indicate its Polar Smoke but really not sure, to be fair it does not look "smoked" at all.

Also, and more important i doubt if i can find or afford a new trim piece, but my OCD will not stop me from looking or touching the trim and its driving me mad.

Question -

Is it a real veneer stick on the aluminum trim piece ?
Is it just a plastic wrap that is then lacquered ?
Has anyone sanded and re finished these pieces at all ?
Could i use standard 2K automotive clear coat to re finish the piece ?

I am really tempted to wet sand and then cleracoat, then sand and buff, im am pretty convinced it could be done but thought i would ask the forum before i cock it up !!!!

All input gratefully received.


Problems / Re: Rear parking sensor removal
« on: May 30, 2018, 09:14:55 PM »

Eh up I have just done mine, the little beggars are tight in.

I did this:-

Used my plastic pry set
Undid exhaust blanks
From the outside inserted my pry tools gently on the edge of the outer sensor cover
Moved it on the edge down toward the bottom
As the gap increased slid the other pry tool in the other side and did same
I found my outer cover then popped out from the bottom
Once the outer was off you can then easily push the sensor and inner housing out through the exhaust port
Then clean it up and slide the sensor out and Un clip the electric cable
It’s a bugger refitting too, I did the reverse once I figured out how stuff clipped together

No way could I figure out how it could be done any other way.

Hope this helps

Eh up,

Wpoll - i got two clip of ebay for £16.99 for both - thought i would try them first before paying £35.00 + from the dealers.

The parts were ok in fairness - not OEM quality though but fit for purpose  - will see how it holds up.

Colin - Not great having bumper sag  - by the way the clips come in satin black so no need for painting - keep up the good work.

cheers all


Eh - up, for what its worth you are probably going to get a lot of feedback as people tend to have personal preferences on tyres.

Summer - i run Coopers they are a budget price tyre and perform well on the whole
Winter - Pirelli Winter are a great tyre i swear by then for where i live, get you through the white stuff with ease even on 19 with staggered set up.

In the past ive run Khumo on my shogun but not great in my view as wet grip was poor and wear rate high, Continentals i think are too hard compound, Uniroyals are a good all round tyre and they make a good range of all season tyres now.

I buy through Openeo and Camskill both are great supplier with excellent pricing - just find a local ATS to fit.


General X5 Forum (E53) / Re: Scuttle Panel Removal And Refresh
« on: May 21, 2018, 09:53:48 PM »

Funny enough was thinking about your motor when I did this!

It does look better though now it’s done


I thought ii would close this thread out, this weekend I took of my bumper again to replace the broken bumper corner clip.

It’s a press fit retained by two Torx 20 self tappers at either end. The plastic moulding pushes into the wing via snap fit (read snap off !!) mushroom buttons.( see pics)

The access to remove the Torx is easy, there is very limited room to get at the plastic corner clip only from both sides and you need elf fingers which are triple jointed (see pics)as such I think its inevitable it will break if you try and remove it, I would advise always getting a replacement as I could not find a way of removing without breaking the clips.

You can see from the photo where mine was broken and the wing tab was missing hence the bumper sag.
I put the replacement part in with no issues after cleaning the area; make sure you align everything especially the whole where the bumper wing tab slots into (see photo).
Refit screws and double checked it all lined up and back it went – great result and chuffed the bumper now aligns perfectly.

Hope this helps someone in the future.

Cheers all.

General X5 Forum (E53) / Scuttle Panel Removal And Refresh
« on: May 21, 2018, 09:38:51 AM »
Eh up All,
Decided my scuttle panel needed to come out and required a good clean in the corners and to check the drain holes were clear.
Removed the panel easy enough and on cleaning realised how bad the plastic had discoloured.
As some of you know I used Carpro dlux, its not cheap but works, cleaned up the scuttle applied the dlux and the results are spot on, hopefully get at least 12-16 months from one treatmnet.
Before and after pics attched


Like your listening tool  - i have a cocker spaniel - his ears are too droopy to use - but he can hear the treat box rattle at 500 yards !!!!!


I have a wife that drives like that on occasions!!!!!!!!!!!


Eh -up all,

Having now fixed the PDC ( yipee) :) as per my earlier post i have deduced that someone has had the bumper off prior and broken the little plastic clip bracket that is mounted to the underside of the wing and that secures the bumper. ( Hope that makes sense)

As a result the bumper is "saggy" under the headlight simply because the clip is not supporting it.

I have sourced the plastic bracket and it looks like its secured by two screws at either end (no problem to get off ) and its then a push fit into two holes on the wing itself with plastic snap fit clips that are moulded onto the bracket itself. This secures then secures the bracket and as a result the bumper can sit flush up to the wing.

I am assuming that once the screws are off you can pry / drill/ lever (i can hear the snap already ) of the bracket ( no doubt the snap fits will break) from the outside and there is no reason why you should need to get behind the wing itself ?

Has anyone ever done this and how easy.

I can get the bumper off easily and given its only the one corner i am sure i can work it, but need to understand if its just as simple as i make it sound. what worries me is i am missing something that i cannot see on the flip side of the inner wing !!

As always any help appreciated - last thing i want is the bumper worse than before i start .....it has been known.....



Well ordered 6 sensors on line from ebay having checked the part numbers on realoem.

Stripped of the front bumper first and had decided already to replace all the fronts whilst it was off, two were definatley not working anyway.

Bumper came off fine, but someone had taken it off in the past and broken the little plastic clip that sits on the underside of the wing where the plastic tabs press fit in the bumper. Accounts for why the bumper sits just out of line.! Managed to pry the other side out and wiggle the bumper of. Will no try and source the plastic clip and replace it , looks fairly easy to get at in fairness and i think its a press fit that clips in.

Replaced sensors and before re assembly checked everything on the front worked  - result.

Moved to rear and replaced the two faulty rears after figuring out how the little b$^^ers came off.

Checked the PDC button - light on no flashing and no sound  - Great result.

As a side point i could not hear the sensors clicking or feel them through my fingers so instead of electing to spend a fortune at the dealers  or souring a OBD scanning tool i tried a £2.20 pink stethoscope from Amazon - great piece of kit worked a dream could hear the clicking on all the good ones and able to spot the faulty ones.

Hope the above helps someone else.

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