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Buy and sell / BMW Winter Wheels and Tyres 18” Double Spoke 446
« Last post by bobgolden on Today at 03:00:05 PM »
For sale is a set of 4 winter wheels and tyres as above, complete with Pirelli runflat winter tyres and tyre pressure sensors.

They are from my F15 X5 30d M Sport and are currently stored at Sytner BMW but will be available from 31 October.

The wheels and tyres have covered circa 7k miles from new and are swapped and stored by Sytner each year. No kerb marks etc.

On offer at £700 collected from South Yorkshire.
General X5 Forum (F15) / Re: F15 19" Double Spokes 467M Tye sizes
« Last post by bobgolden on Today at 02:54:02 PM »
I’ve just checked with Sytner and will have the wheels available next week.

They are 18” double spoke 446 winter wheel and tyre fitted with run flat winter tyres (Pirelli) complete with tyre pressure sensors. Around 7,000 miles from new and for sale at £700 for the complete set, collection only from South Yorkshire.

PM if genuinely interested and I’ll forward pictures as soon as I receive the wheels out of storage.
Buy and sell / Re: Any takers, Price lowered for a cracking car
« Last post by mightymetro on Today at 01:50:55 PM »
Pm sent

 I’m going to view an X3 in the next few days.  As such I was hoping you guys may be able to give me some tips on what to look for on the vehicle and the paperwork if possible?

 It’s a 2005 X3 diesel manual transmission with 109k on the clock. The service book shows stamps to 91k and then there receipts for the rest from what the owner tells me.

 He also said the sat nav voice doesn’t work and the handbrake needs adjusting. It also only has the one key so I’d need to source a spare. Apart from those bits it runs and works as it should.

 He’s asking just under £3k to add some context. What should I be checking and how much should I be budgeting to fix/replace the above?

 Thanks I’m advance!
nice write up, thankyou.
My car is a 2002 4.4 , just to be sure, I need ATF Dextron III, I have 5 litres of new, old stock Dextron II (Not III), would there be much difference if I used the II.
I am not a cheepskate, just don't like wasting good quality oil.

General X5 Forum (E53) / Re: Transfer Case Oil Change - Advice Please
« Last post by ttr on Today at 08:10:45 AM »
Eh up all,

In case this is of use to anyone my comments and a  few photos on the diff and transfer case oil change.

Front Diff:-

I took the wheels off to strip the lower steering plastic protection of, makes access alot easier and quicker. ( im working of trolley jacks not a 4 post lift)

Prep the day before as the retaining screws may be corroded ( see earlier post)

Support the aluminium under guard with a trolley jack whilst you are unbolting makes life so much easier.

I cracked off all the 16mm head bolts first to ensure they were all free, sprayed them before hand with penetrating oil.

Some instructions refer to using new bolts as they are a "stretch" bolt, im no engineer but the treads and bolt were not distorted nor looked stressed so i re used, retorqued to 58Nm on refit.

Access to the fill plug on RHD cars is through the passenger side arch, its dead easy to get extension bar in with a 14mm allen key socket, i cracker the fill off first, then the drain.

I put the wheels back on and dropped the car level to drain off the diff oil, filled until it dribbled out of the fill plug.

Tightnend fill and drain to 55Nm.

I jacked car back up wheels off and put aluminium splash guard on, use jack to get alignment correct.

Transfer Case:-

I left car in the air whilst getting the plastic transmission shroud off, again might be worthwhile checking condition of the screws (8mm socket) before you start ( i had no [problems funnily enough)

the fill and drain are 16mm head size, access is tight for the fill plug so a ring spanner is needed, bottom drain is fine.

Cracked off mine no problem, some posts state they are on really tight, mine came undone easily enough, i marked mine up so i had a guide when re tightening.

dropped car level, drained off oil (see pic of old oil)

refilled but because of access i would recommend a silicone or plastic pipe about 1 metre long to use as an extension to the bottle or a fluid pump. You cannot get the oil in from underneath the car as i could not get enough pressure on the bottle to force the fluid out due to the angle you are working at. 

Now i need to get the transfer case reset so its calibrates to the new oil, will sort that this week.


Glad i did the change, the old fluid looked in poor condition, but in fairness they may well have been fine, without a proper analysis its anyone's guess.

Im satisfied that the new fluids will be upto the job and certainly one less thing to maintain again all being well, hopefully can only be a positive for changing them out.

I hope the above helps someone out in the future and thanks again to all who helped me.

Front Diff Fill Plug

Front Diff Drain Plug

Old Diff Fluid

Transfer case Fill Bolt

Transfer Case Drain Bolt

Old transfer case oil

Problems / Re: Winter Work
« Last post by henrym3 on Yesterday at 09:38:03 PM »
I had a vibration at idle when in gear which greatly reduced when in neutral or park. To be honest I wouldn’t have done anything about it if I hadn’t been changing all the other bits. You know what it’s like, while I’m in there might as well do everything.
3000 mile a year  :)) I don't think what ever you choose will break the bank for fuel anyway unless of course you buy diesel which will likely clog up the dpf with all the short runs , trying to make a conscious effort with mine to avoid as many short runs as possible and use our other petrol car  :)
General X5 Forum (E70) / Re: Just viewed another E70 with decent spec.
« Last post by AdamsX5 on Yesterday at 07:20:03 PM »
If you want to use Puncturesafe they have a calculator to help work out what you need per tyre.

For 20” wheels it’s roughly 700ml (one bottle) per tyre.

Calculator is here....

Thx I’ll  bear that in mind when I come to change them .

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
When I purchased my BETSY part of the criteria of the purchase was to have an LPG system fitted straight away, so getting back the cost of the LPG was written off as it was part of the purchase price as I knew running the 4.6 on petrol all the time would never be an economic possibility. I would always get back some of the cost as the LPG system on the vehicle as it will be a good selling point for any future owner.
Losing the wheel well space is not a problem as I rather an LPG tank sat there instead of a spare "go slow" wheel, like many of the modern cars on the road today more and more have a puncture repair aerosol kits instead of having a lumpy spare wheel taking up space, so this is what I have available to me if ever needed, and when going to the pump it always puts a smile on my face when I'm having to pay out 59.9p a litre  :), and I even once was happy when I had to fill up at motorway service station at 65.9p, at these prices it's cheap motoring.
Update - Having looked at the figures the past 4-years I'm doing closer to a stunning 3000-miles a year  :)) :))
so still open minded and looking around............
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