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Messages - sleepyfolk

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Cool thanks

Just finished the squeezing and wet vacuuming, now got the heater blowing under and the air mover blowing down so we might be getting dry.
Also realised that the water seemed a bit soapy, then remembered that BMW washed it when they put the new drivers airbag in last Friday so I am leaning towards it being the door seal or weather strip/vapour barrier. Will be doing the hosepipe test at the weekend once we’re all dry and I can see what’s coming in, hasn’t leaked in the rain so far whilst parked on the level

General X5 Forum (E53) / Re: 4.6is
« on: March 29, 2018, 02:02:13 PM »
My tame mechanic says it’s too much work/cost to be a preventative thing really, although I expect there might be those that disagree, I decided with mine to change the lower cam chain tensioner (£70 from BMW) and fit a pre-lube system to give the engine oil pressure before it starts. Well I say that but the pre-lube system is in the boot - but it is on the job list for the coming weeks.

Other than the usual full service with quality oil, changing coolant, I’ve changed all the diff and transfer box fluids, rear diff needed driveshaft seals, belts, brake fluid, power steering fluid and pipes that were old and looking dodgy.

Oil separator is likely to be ready for change and associated pipes - doing that soon. Likewise while we’re in there doing the rocker cover gaskets - common leak at this age and changing plan he while in there.

Check the brake pipes as best you can- they are steel and hidden under the plastic under trays, you can see the ends where they connect to the caliper and go up over the rear subframe, they are steel and rust out! Just had all mine done from each wheel back to the ABS unit - £6-700. Had to drop the rear subframe.

Check for aged looking water pipes or brittle/cracking coolant tank.

Other than that it’s been pretty cheap to run really 😝

Well I’ve just pushed the button on the dynavin, missed the delivery for the weekend though 😢 pesky work got in the way! The chap I spoke to talked me out of the TV, I was all up for it after Henry’s report then he said the aerials don’t work with tinted windows in the rear quarter very well and the pictur isn’t that clear and the reception a bit patchy! Not sure what to do now 🤔

I modded my phone cradle to take an i phone 6

So as you know I’ve got the car stripped back so I’ve decided to run the Dynavin cable and fit my iPod/iPhone cables whilst I’ve got the car in bits.
I was thinking of removing the current phone cradle and running the charger lead up there for my phone or iPod. I think I can see how to remove the old cradle and insert, what I’m worried about and this may be a stupid question but, if I remove all the electrical gubbins from the armrest, will I be causing any problems with the steering wheel controls when I fit the Dynavin, or confusing the canbus/I-bus in some way?
I just thought if i could remove the original cables from the hinge where they’re routed it would be neater, photo of yours if you’ve got a minute would be nice!

Cheers fellas, I’m currently drying out, got the carpets peeled away and the plastic cable run guards out and all that, going to bring the wet and dry vac from work tomorrow and dry the sponge carpet back out, then do some hose/rain testing by sitting inside.

Interesting you mention the vapour barrier, it was in a poor state on the rear door, i reseated and gorilla taped it a couple of weeks ago when I clipped the lower drivers door seal back on, I didn’t think it would let that sort of amount of water in but it’s been parked on a slope all winter so I suppose it’s possible it could be water from before I fixed those.
The velvety black trim by the rear door surround seal on the sill was very wet so maybe that’s my ingress point, when I vacuumed the water out before it must have only got the surface stuff out - I can see that now I’ve got under there, the carpet is a bit thicker than my old Dolomite Sprint it seems! There’s no way of drying it all without stripping out.

Once I’ve got her dry I’ll put some talc down and get the wife on the hose pipe, if it’s still coming in there I’ll get a new vapour barrier and sika it in

So far:
1. I’ve looked in the boot because of the condensation but can’t see it is getting through at all to the main area of the car, had the back seat out to check for dribbles.
2. Pulled off the A pillar and checked the front sunroof drains visually, then poured some water in and it runs straight out under the car.
3. Pulled the drivers seat, accelerator pedal and trim out so I could lift the carpets up a bit, I’d have to cut them to get them out so hopefully I can dry them without doing that, removed the cable run guards to mop out. Checked up by the front bulkhead and I can’t see any damp
4. Lots more mopping and drying to do but not sure where to go next.

So far my only conclusion is it must be the door seals, the back is absolutely drenched, the front wet but not as bad, it was previously being parked nose down on a slope. Any other ideas welcome!

Thanks Henry, sun is out tomorrow according to the weather so I’ll be on it tomorrow- I’ve started another thread to avoid hijacking this one so I’ll keep it updated in the problems section

Well, as you might have gathered form my moaning on another post, and at the risk of being accused of thread hijack I thought I’d start another thread. I had a damp drivers side carpet a few weeks back - noticed because of condensation on the inside of the windscreen.
So far investigations have been:
1. Check vapour barriers behind door cards - repaired 2 and re-clipped door cards with new clips.
2. Check door seals - re-clipped drivers door seal with new clips.

Still wet and to be honest seems worse, front and back on drivers side are quite wet so god knows what it’s like under the carpet. Any other ideas let me know as I need to get her dried out ASAP

Other things I’ve noticed:
1. In the boot the left hand side seems to have a lot of condensation but not the right, not sure if it can get into the car from that area and it’s the wrong side?
2. Looks like a small crack in the near side corner lens, surely it’s not possible to leak from there to the drivers footwell.
3. There’s a thin seal attached around the sunroof which is slightly loose in one corner, I can’t see any water coming in but I’ll have to get it replaced.

Plan of action:
1. Check sunroof drains front and rear, although it shows no signs of damp or condensation anywhere around the frame or A pillars or headlining. Thanks Henry for suggestion - I will double check - “Take the A pillar cover off and if there is any sign of dampness or water then the pipe has come off. Take the grab handle off and the door seal  then you can manoeuvre the roof lining enough to push it back on again.”
 I’ll see if I can put the guide I found below for the rear drains - might help someone else with a Bavarian swimming pool.
2. Strip out boot and look for ingress, as advised by Henry “If left rear is condensating it might be the floor at the bottom of the area underneath where the cd/satnav is. The bottom bit where the exhaust heat shield is secured is a water trap and has had 16 years to rust enough to create pin holes.” - thanks
3. Check around rear light area - it has been out before but had a new gasket fitted.
4. Replace sunroof seal.

Yes so far sounds like I might give the CarPlay a miss. Might go for the TV instead! I had a damp drivers side carpet a few weeks back and noticed the door seal wasn’t clipped in, so I bought some clips and refitted it - turns out it wasn’t that as the drivers side carpet and rear seat well on that side are both wet.
Looks like I’ll be pulling out the seats and lifting the carpet to dry it out - hence why the dynavin might get fitted sooner rather than later!

I’ve noticed in the boot the left hand side seems to have a lot of condensation but not the right, not sure if it can get into the car from that area and it’s the wrong side but needs checking out, found a good guide to checking the sunroof drains on xoutpost on a PDF so I’ll give that a go as well and see how it goes I suppose.
Don’t think you can upload PDFs here or it would be a handy guide

Oh I see, I’d assumed I would just take them all out when I put the Dynavin in, might happen sooner than I thought - think I’ll have to pull the back seat and boot lining out to try and find a leak!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Just out of interest Henry, why did you leave the CD changer and GPS units in when you changed the head unit?

What do you get when you press VEHICLE?
Why didn’t I just ask that! I was googling to try and find out but couldn’t see anything, we’ll wait with baited breath 🤔

Looking at your service history I would conclude that the X was used for fairly long journeys in its early life and consequently the oil services were done at 2 years as opposed to taking note of the mileage, and the dash took longer to go down to the Amber/red.
Later in its life as often happens, someone didn’t bother servicing it - maybe reset the service lights themselves and sold it on, or just serviced it themselves and didn’t stamp the book.

Lots of people still stick with 10000 miles or annual oil changes and take no notice of the lights on the dash, it is easy to reset the service interval lights and brake fluid change indicator when it comes up - no special equipment/code reader etc is required, you just use the knobs on the dash.

My advice would be to service it yourself, change the diff and transfer box oils, reset the lights and then you decide whether to trust the lights, wait for 2 years, or just do it annually, for the price of oil and filter I can’t see the point of skimping.

This extract below is how the X5 drivers manual explains it:

The BMW Maintenance System
Service Interval Display

The BMW Maintenance System has been designed as a reliable means of providing maximum driving and oper- ating safety – and as cost-effectively as possible for you.
From the point of view of maintenance, 62,000 miles/100,000 km accumulated in short-distance urban driving are not the equivalent of the same distance covered at moderate speeds in long- distance highway travel.

Conventional systems rely solely on distance traveled to determine when service is due. The BMW Maintenance System, on the other hand, began many years ago to take the actual conditions under which the vehicle is driven into consideration. After all, different drivers can accumulate mileage in very different ways.

The BMW Maintenance System includes the Engine Oil Service and Inspections I and II
Determining the maintenance intervals according to the actual loads on the vehicle covers every kind of operating situation. However, even those who drive only short distances – significantly less than 6,000 miles/10,000 km annually – should have the engine oil changed at least every 2 years since oil deteriorates over time, regardless of use.

That’s great, thanks for posting, did wonder how it was all going!

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