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Topics - ttr

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1
General X5 Forum (E53) / Steel underengine splash guard
« on: October 13, 2018, 10:57:06 PM »
Evening all.

Need some help please

Trying to change front diff oil, ( see seperate  post) cannot fathom how to get to the nuts on the reverse of the splash  guard. How the hell do you get to them to drop the guard?

Tried this morning can only guess you need to remove the underwing plastic guards - really? Must be another way?

Can anyone assist?

Really want to sort the oil change,

I know there are 6 bolts and nuts need locking with a spanner from above but how?

Really appreciate any advice

Cheers in advance

2
General X5 Forum (E53) / Transfer Case Oil Change - Advice Please
« on: October 09, 2018, 08:20:50 AM »
All,

I looked at doing a change of oil in my transfer case last year but never got round to it - having another look at whats involved and having read on here and on the net.

From what i gather it a simple task:-

Crack 16mm fill plug
Crack 16mm drain plug ( access is tight so no impact sockets just ring spanner )
Drain about 750ml of oil
Fill with BMW specific oil  83220397244  tf0870 ( can anyone comment on using RAVENOL TF0870 supposed to meet BMW specification)
Fill till it dribbles out and refit fill plug

NOW : - i understand because of the wet clutches in the case that you need to do a reset on the "computer" in the transfer case that measures the clutch wear and adjust to compensate for the new oil. Never had to do this on any other of my 4WDs.

Questions:-

I assume it is essential to do the reset ?
Anyone not had the reset done and just changed the oil ?
Can i drive the car to my indy after changing the oil for him then to reset the system ?
Will a 15 minute drive effect the transfer case as it will take me that long to get to him ?
Any down sides to changing the transfer case oils - mines at 100K miles now ?

Thanks in advance as always

Cheers

 

3
General X5 Forum (E53) / E53 3.0d Air Filter Replacement
« on: September 25, 2018, 06:59:05 AM »
Eh Up all,

Having finished the ATF change my next task is the air filter.

I am surprised ( like everyone else i guess) at how involved changing the filter is compared to all the other cars i have owned.

Anyway, have read up and looked on You Tube about How To and it looks doable just time consuming.

Couple of questions:-

Has anyone any tips ?
Do you have to remove the washer bottle - some say yes some no
How tricky is the back left cap screw to get at in reality - it looks a PIA
Removing the air filter shroud - can you do this as some say AFTER taking the air filter out as its easier ?

Any tips greatly appreciated.

Cheers all



4
General X5 Forum (E53) / Automatic Gearbox Leak - Pan Seal Gasket ?
« on: September 03, 2018, 11:08:54 AM »
Eh up all,

I noticed a slight weep of oil around the plastic shield protecting the automatic gearbox underneath the car.

Managed to strip the shield of this weekend as figured out i could get to it without the need for a ramp.

After juggling the shield out of the way it would appear i have a weep from the gearbox pan, from what i can tell it appears to be from the gasket area, which is somewhat of a relief. I took a video on my phone but no idea how i upload it to the site ( technology not my strong point!) just so i could get a second opinion from you guys.


Questions:-

Are these prone to weep ?
Im not too worried as its a weep and does not look like ive lost alot of fluid - but should i be ?
I will get this fixed but think i will get a fluid changes and replacement kit at the same time - any views ?
Any kits i should use?


Welcome any views , thanks in advance

 

5
Eh Up All

Last week my Tyre Pressure Light came up RED on the dash for no reason - never had a problem with it before. It came up whilst going round a roundabout, just for info.

To be sure checked all TPs and they were fine.

I reset by holding the TPS button on the console and the light went out.

No light has come back up since, BUT, can some one please check the ignition sequence for me on start up.

I am positive that when i used to start up:-

 Ignition position 1 - no TPS Amber check light
Ignition position 2 - TPS Amber light shows, (as i recall it does as a check) then for a second turns RED, then goes out. I could sware it never turned RED then went out, just Amber then went out ????

Start and drive car no TPS warning at all - so no issue.

I might be completely wrong its just im now aware of the sequence and can find nothing to check against.

I have serached on here and know how the system works (Thanks Horizon)


The system works via the traction control system / wheel sensors. When you reset the system, by pressing and holding the dash button until it goes amber, then it monitors how the wheels rotate and distance covered over a set time/ distance and saves this info.
When the rolling circumference changes due to the tyre deflating it flags up the red light.
So if you reset the system with the incorrect pressures it takes that as the norm. It doesn't monitor pressure but rolling circumference. So always reset after the correct pressure is put in to the tyres.


And i appear to have no problems but its bugging me about the RED check light on start up.

Appreciate anyone confirming the actual light sequence,

Cheers all


6
General X5 Forum (E53) / Brake Pipe - Underbody Plastic Cover Removal
« on: August 13, 2018, 09:09:39 AM »
Eh Up all,

Car passed its MOT this weekend - not even an advisory.

However when i nipped under the ramp i noticed the brake lines and the fact you cannot see them under the plastic cover. I remember Sleepfolk doing some major work last year on his.

Does anyone know how these covers come off - it looks like they are traditional screw type fixings rather than plastic , Its a shame because i am betting they are a sod to get off.

I want to get the cover off and before i start wondered if anyone had done this, if so how and what to buy fixings wise in advance.

Cheers for all the help.



7
General X5 Forum (E53) / Windscreen Washer Tank Clean - Quick Tip
« on: July 09, 2018, 07:42:36 AM »
Eh UP all,

Yesterday went to finally sort out my windscreen washer tank, it was pretty caked in mold on the inside and i knew there was likely to be sludge in the bottom as well.

Used the forum to figure out how to remove and came out in no time.

Emptied the tank and sure enough jelly sludge in the bottom, after a good initial rinse and dissolved dishwasher tablet in and shake about there was still mold in and i had read about the difficulties of cleaning the inside. Tried all sorts i had laying in the garage from wheel brushes to toothbrushes to no avail.

Finally did the following;-

1. Old car sponge ( or new if your not bothered about £1.00 and spoiling a new one....i'm a Yorkshire-man so no way ......)
2. Old fashioned all wire coat hanger
3. Duck tape or similar
4. Cut of a suitable sized chunk of sponge so it fits through the mouth of the washer tank
5. Cut of a good 18 inch of wire coat hanger
6. Pierce end of coat hanger into centre of square sponge and tape securely to the hanger
7. Hey presto.......of you go.... bend to shape and it gets into all the places and you can wipe of all the mold

Cleaned the tank out a treat and also flushed the hoses out for good measure, all back together and no leaks and no mold.

Hope the above helps someone else.

Cheers all.



 




8
General X5 Forum (E53) / Seatbelt - slow to retract
« on: June 22, 2018, 08:59:24 AM »
Eh up all,

My E53 drivers belt and passenger seat belts have always been slow to retract.

My initial thinking was its the belt mech itself due to age etc and would need replacing so have beenlooking at used and a way to remove the trim.

I then searched on here (should have done it first !!!!!!!!!!) and found a recommended fix.

A quick clean of the plastic guide on the underside of the belt to remove 12 years of X$Ite, i was amazed what was stuck on that guide where the hell did it come from and mange to stick on it. A mist of silicone spray and the belt retracts at warp speed.

Repeated on passenger and hey presto.

Just to acknowledge what a great site this is for info, saved a fortune in time and money so far.

Cheers all from Gods Own County.

PS if anybody gets chance to look at my earlier thread on the wood trim its now got pictures on to try and figure out what wood it is - all help appreciated.










9
All,

I noticed that my wooden effect door trim on the drivers side is cracking more, i assume its just the heat ( unusual for Yorkshire !!!) and the fact from what i have read its a common problem ?

My trim spec id S435A - can anyone confirm that this is Dark Poplar - ive looked and it seesm to indicate its Polar Smoke but really not sure, to be fair it does not look "smoked" at all.

Also, and more important i doubt if i can find or afford a new trim piece, but my OCD will not stop me from looking or touching the trim and its driving me mad.

Question -

Is it a real veneer stick on the aluminum trim piece ?
Is it just a plastic wrap that is then lacquered ?
Has anyone sanded and re finished these pieces at all ?
Could i use standard 2K automotive clear coat to re finish the piece ?

I am really tempted to wet sand and then cleracoat, then sand and buff, im am pretty convinced it could be done but thought i would ask the forum before i cock it up !!!!


All input gratefully received.

Cheers




10
General X5 Forum (E53) / Scuttle Panel Removal And Refresh
« on: May 21, 2018, 09:38:51 AM »
Eh up All,
Decided my scuttle panel needed to come out and required a good clean in the corners and to check the drain holes were clear.
Removed the panel easy enough and on cleaning realised how bad the plastic had discoloured.
As some of you know I used Carpro dlux, its not cheap but works, cleaned up the scuttle applied the dlux and the results are spot on, hopefully get at least 12-16 months from one treatmnet.
Before and after pics attched



11
Eh -up all,

Having now fixed the PDC ( yipee) :) as per my earlier post i have deduced that someone has had the bumper off prior and broken the little plastic clip bracket that is mounted to the underside of the wing and that secures the bumper. ( Hope that makes sense)

As a result the bumper is "saggy" under the headlight simply because the clip is not supporting it.

I have sourced the plastic bracket and it looks like its secured by two screws at either end (no problem to get off ) and its then a push fit into two holes on the wing itself with plastic snap fit clips that are moulded onto the bracket itself. This secures then secures the bracket and as a result the bumper can sit flush up to the wing.

I am assuming that once the screws are off you can pry / drill/ lever (i can hear the snap already ) of the bracket ( no doubt the snap fits will break) from the outside and there is no reason why you should need to get behind the wing itself ?

Has anyone ever done this and how easy.

I can get the bumper off easily and given its only the one corner i am sure i can work it, but need to understand if its just as simple as i make it sound. what worries me is i am missing something that i cannot see on the flip side of the inner wing !!

As always any help appreciated - last thing i want is the bumper worse than before i start .....it has been known.....

Cheers
 


12
Eh up all!

Next project for me is fixing my PDC.

Symptoms are:-
Ignition on 2
Press P button and sometimes in stays lit no sound, sometimes is flashes and a beep is herd which then goes off.
Sensors do not appear to be working, but some do work intermittently at the rear, not so at the front???

Things I have checked:-

I can feel the pulse from one of the rear sensors when I put my finger over the sensor, cannot feel it on others.
I can HEAR the faint clicking on all the rear sensors though, albeit some are very faint.
Fronts I cannot determine as yet.

I have get access to the rear sensor and popped one out so in terms of replacing the sensors it appears relatively easy now I know which way to tug/pull/twist/lever the shroud off from the front and behind.

Questions:-

Mine is a facelift so I gather 6 of the 8 sensors are “straight” type and interchangeable and 2 are “L” shaped which fit on the front bumper corners – can anyone confirm this please?

Which sensors are best to buy on ebay , I have found a set of 4 straights for £45.00 or you can buy 4 for £27.00 – is there any difference or are they all Chinese imports ?

Would you buy all 8 sensors just to rule out this fault as I gather that the rear and front can be isolated, so I assume rear will work ok even if the front are faulty,  but you cannot isolate if 1 of the 4 fail at either front or back ?

I am doubtful it’s the actual PDC unit itself, which I understand is in the rear of the boot well somewhere.
Any tips or advice welcome, I do not have access to any OBD kit to read faults etc .

Cheers again

13
All,

I managed to pick up some BMW Tigerclaw Alloys fairly cheap as they were in rough condition, kerbed rims, damage to the paint and blistering due to corrosion on the inner faces and outers. Other than that the rims were in good underlying condition with no cracks or buckles. (see pics below)

Given the weather of late I thought I would set about a refurb and use these rims for my summer tyres.

I spent some time souring the correct paint code silver, so for anyone who is interested the code I used is BMW 144 Felgensilber, it’s a great match to the OEM, plus good 2k cleracoat.(see pics)

Method I used for anyone thinking about a refurb was:-

Clean of the wheels with acid wheel cleaner to remove day to day debris.
I ground out the worst of the rim damage with my mini grinder with a flap disc attached (240grit)
I also ground out the corrosion on the inner face with same
Initial sand with 320grit, only use this was areas of my wheels were so bad I needed to sand out the flap disc marks and take it back down to base metal.
Wet and dry with 400 grit to smooth out the sanding marks and get the area flat
Wet and dry with 600 grit to get a reasonable flat surface to accept the etch and base primer.
I panel wiped all the surfaces and sprayed on etch primer to the local areas which were down to bare metal, then left for 48 hours.

Panel wiped again and laid on 3 coats of grey  2k primer using my trusty HVLP spray gun. Compared to my days using cellulose 2k is far better and laid down well after the first mist coats.

Left for 4 days and then wet and dry with 600 to 800 grit, to leave a lovely flat matt surface ( and no finger ends left a this stage either !) (see pics)

Finally did two wheels at a time,panel wipe, tac cloth and laid on 3 coats of the silver and as the silver flashed off laid down 2 coats of 2K clear coat. (see pics)

For a home spray job, and £65.00 in materials,  I’m delighted with the results, just leaving then for a week of so before taking then to get the rubber on.

Hope the above assists someone in the future.

Next job – fixing PDC (See separate thread) 


14
General X5 Forum (E53) / Fitting a mobile phone kit
« on: February 20, 2018, 08:58:14 PM »
All,

Looking for some help with advice on fitting a phone kit, either a Parrot or Bury.

I’m no fan of elecs, in fact I loathe them, better with the spanner’s as I understand them! Please bare with the stupid questions I will then decide if I give it a go or give in and get a qualified sparks in.

I have a facelift 2005 plate with basic single CD player and basic business radio.

If this is the case do I still have the amp in the boot with the 16 pin SOT lead rather than 8 pin ( understand these were Pre facelift), or is everything in the dash I need to wire into.

From what I can gather I thought all x5 had the amp in the boot but now I’m not sure and in fairness would not nessasairly know what I was looking for without pictures.

I looked on realoem which has helped a little but still not clear to me.

Happy ish with the trim removal aspects as I found some useful links on the site.

I want to ensure I order the correct kit and ancillary items from the supplier.

Cheers in advance for any tips, I will then decide which route I go down.




15
Well it’s less work and more tinkering…….

Managed to get 30 minutes to swop out the fog light bulbs and go “old School” with the yellow.

I’m not convinced yet, although I have to say the night vision is actually pretty good, I would even say better compared to the normal OEM white lights even though the wattage and output are the same. Or maybe its just psychological on my part, reliving my youth in my Phase 1 Renault 5GT Turbo.

Cannot really photo the night effect but you can see a daylight shot.

Will stick with it for a while to see if it grows on me, function wise its good just not sure aesthetically now they are in.

Next job the tints now the weather is getting better


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